‘Hi’ tea in the afternoon at the Hotel Ivy
A Review

By Alison DeRudder

Many Americans equate afternoon tea with old ladies or little girls who dress up their stuffed animals in bonnets. While there is something kitschy and old-fashioned about eating finger sandwiches and crumpets, it is a highly underrated tradition. More than a snack, afternoon tea is a relaxing way to reenergize, visit with friends and family, or simply reflect on the day’s events.

The Hotel Ivy in Minneapolis is now hosting a daily event in their lobby (3-5 p.m.) that reveals to Minnesotans that tea does not have to be an archaic and stuffy affair.

Joan Ida, the new executive chef of the hotel’s restaurant Porter and Frye, has developed a refreshingly global take on the classic British tea menu. For example, in place of the predictable egg salad sandwiches, Ida has invented a Japanese-inspired deviled egg, seasoned with sakegasu (sake must, or sediment), and topped with salmon roe.

A finger sandwich comes in the form of a tiny, warm Monte Cristo, so butter-laden it melts in your mouth. A button of maple-scented waffle, topped with smoked chicken, and pecans, is a clever play of savory and sweet flavors. One of the most inspired canapés is an Eastern European take on a coronet. This unusual bite is a fluffy mousse of smoked whitefish, horseradish and crème fraiche neatly tucked inside a tiny red cone of dried beet puree. It is tasty, beautiful to look at and has a delightful textural contrast.

The menu’s only disappointment was the quintessential teatime snack: the scone. It was as hard as a rock on the outside and pasty on the inside; perhaps classic is best when it comes to scones. However, overall, Chef Ida deserves praise for her creativity in reinterpreting traditional tea snacks. Priced at $15, including tea, it’s an economical way to go out and enjoy some of the most innovative fare in the Twin Cities.

Before selecting your tea, be sure to sample the aromas of all of their offerings, which are presented on a cart that comes to your table. The Ivy offers a good variety of Harney and Sons teas that range from typical, such as Earl Grey, to unusual flavors like basswood. It is interesting to compare and interact with different varieties of tea, such the smoky Lapsang Souchong or the wine-like Pu-erh.

In addition to teas, there are libations available for $7. Hotel Ivy offers two dry sparkling wines, a brut rose and a blanc des blancs. They also offer Lustau East India Solera sherry, which is a rich and decadent fortified wine with dried fruit, brown sugar, and walnut aromas. Overall, the beverages are first-rate and appropriate for accompanying serious snacks.

Although the Hotel Ivy’s lobby is bit short on character because of its Zen-like interior design, it does offer a comfortable quality of light and air that is sometimes hard to find on dreary days in Minneapolis.

The Ivy translates this minimalist approach to their tea service. Even the most sophisticated midwesterners are not at home with a white-gloved wait staff and silver pots on the table; with this in mind, they have created a casual yet urbane environment for tea. Although the service seemed a bit frenzied and awkward on my first visit, presumably because it was their inaugural weekend, it did not detract from the larger pleasant dining and social experience.

While afternoon tea in the traditional Victorian sense will probably never become the new Starbucks, this innovative, inexpensive and relaxed approach to an old custom could be the next food trend. With its haute cuisine nibbles, interesting beverage options and comfortable atmosphere, the Hotel Ivy’s lobby is a great place to spend a leisurely afternoon.