Take the terror out of your next PC upgrade
Technology Bytes

-- Craig Johnson,
Metropolitan Webguy

You’ve finally made the decision to get a new computer. After multiple hard drive and program crashes, the excuse that “my computer ate my homework” doesn’t quite cut it with your instructors any more. Your hard drive storage is perilously close to overflowing, your operating system was outdated in 2002, and you have barely enough memory to open your email program.

“Time to upgrade,” you tell yourself. But what exactly do you upgrade to? Most students (myself included) are of modest means, and we simply don’t have the disposable income to drop $2,000 or more on a shiny, new computer at a moment’s notice. And the computer options available are enough to make even the most hardware-savvy computer buyer’s head spin.

As it is with Someone Who Seems To Know All Things Computer Based, I’m often called in as a “special purchasing consultant” for friends and family—whenever the large, life-altering purchase of a personal computer is made. This monumental step in a person’s life can be fraught with stress, confusion, and peril. “Apple or Windows?” “Which brand should I choose?” “Flat Panel or CRT Monitor?” These and countless other questions are asked by friends and family, as their fragile psyches slowly crumble under the weight of their imposing purchases.

To further complicate matters, there’s the issue of buy versus build. New computer components are reasonably priced, and if you’re willing to scrounge a little, there are a number of used-computer stores in town that sell used, “last generation” computers and even new components at bargain prices. With a little elbow grease and some know-how, you can generally assemble a solid, reliable machine for about half the cost of an “off-the-rack” model.

Whether you decide to buy off the rack, or build your own PC, here are the main points to keep in mind:

Processor
There are a lot of options—Pentium III, Pentium IV, Centrino, Celeron, Athlon—and all of them are solid performers. I tend to recommend the Athlon XP series. They run just as fast (if not faster) than Pentium models and they generally cost $200-$300 less. For most student uses (email, Internet surfing, and gaming), an Athlon XP 2800 is a perfect buy. Or you can go with slower or older models, such as an Athlon XP1800, or a Pentium IV 1.4 MHz. This can save you a few dollars without sacrificing too much performance.

Memory
Processor speed is meaningless if your computer doesn’t have enough RAM (random access memory) to support it. The majority of computers today run Windows XP, aka “memory glutton.” Add in application usage—even email or Internet surfing—and your screaming XP2800 processor will perform like a snail. I always recommend that a computer running Windows XP have at least 512 MB of RAM installed, with a gigabyte (1024 MB) being optimal. If you routinely run graphics-intensive programs such as Adobe Photoshop, one GB of memory is simply a necessity.

Hard Drive
The amount of storage a hard drive holds has come a long way from the days when one gigabyte of storage was considered enormous. As with fast food and sport utility vehicles, bigger is always better. But just as important is the disk speed—the speed at which the hard disk “spins” to read data. I always recommend that the hard drive has at least a 40 GB capacity, and a speed of 7200 rpm. Anything slower will inhibit your speed and performance; anything smaller isn’t cost effective and will eventually affect your storage ability.

Apple versus Windows
I’d love to get a Mac; not a cutesy, little “all-in-one” fuchsia- or magenta-colored iMac, a real G4 Macintosh tower. However, I can’t afford one. I doubt most students can afford a Mac right now, either. Wait until after graduation to get your Macintosh, when you’re making The Big Dollars. Shun the iMac at all costs.

Monitor
LCD (liquid crystal display) monitors are wonderful: they offer great resolution, and they don’t take up as much space as the cathode ray tube (CRT) monsters do. The only issue is price: a “good” 17-inch LCD monitor can cost up to $500, while a 17-inch flat screen CRT generally costs under $200. You can find LCD monitors cheaper, but the resolution generally isn’t as good, and the display doesn’t perform as well with games or graphics-intensive applications. I generally recommend a 17- to 19-inch flat screen CRT based on price.

Build your own
If you have some mechanical aptitude, or know someone who will do it for you, it’s almost always cheaper to build your own computer. In most cases, you can save up to $300 over a comparable “off-the-rack” PC, and you can customize it to your exact specifications. There are a number of reputable shops in town that deal in components, and many Internet outlets offer competitively priced parts, some with a factory warranty. In most cases, the most expensive item you’ll need is the operating system. Windows XP generally runs about $200 for a licensed copy.

The keys to purchasing a new computer are research and planning. Research what you want, and plan for the machine you need. Whether you buy or build (or have someone build for you), you don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a good, solid computer—you just need to do your homework.

Got a tech issue or question? Are you a recovering iMac user? Contact Craig at metropolitan_webguy@comcast.net. And, no, he won’t build your computer for you.

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