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December 2007
Volume 22
Online Issue #4

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A moveable feast

-- Meghan Dusek

Up until around World War I it was customary, almost obligatory, for members of a certain class to engage in what was known as the Grand Tour as a kind of capstone to their classical education. The Grand Tour was a trip, undertaken with guidance, to Europe. Typically the starting point was London, with Paris, Florence and Rome as essential destinations. The tradition endures today - in the form of backpacking.

Before I finished my B.S. I was lucky enough to be a part of the International Traveling Classroom, or ITC. ITC is a program that essentially allows students to follow their own itineraries for four months and gain credit for it. In my four months abroad, I spent varying amounts of time in London, Brussels, Paris, Amsterdam, Freiberg, Lucerne, Florence, Milan, Verona, Salzburg, Vienna, Prague and Berlin. The experience - though costly and sometimes frustrating, stressful and unpredictable - is something I think about everyday: I've seen more things and been to more places than most people will in a lifetime.

I could wax on the benefits of studying abroad, but there are already mountains of literature on the subject; I'll just assume that you are planning on backpacking for months, and try to answer some questions. Granted, I've only backpacked through Europe so that's really the focus here, but travel - anywhere - is highly encouraged.

What do I need?

The answer to this is intentionally vague. The most general rule of thumb is to put everything you think you absolutely need to survive; now cut it in half. Most airlines limit baggage weight to 50 pounds - but also consider that, when backpacking, you're going to be essentially carrying all your earthly possessions on your back. My pack weighed between 30-40 pounds. This included three pairs of pants, eight shirts/sweatshirts, a jacket, and toiletries…the bare essentials.

Realize that people in other countries brush their teeth, too. You don't NEED to bring a hoard of toiletries; you will be able to buy them abroad.

Jeans are handy. They're durable, warm, versatile and don't show stains. However, they do take a long time to dry, and most European clothes dryers are not only expensive but also slow. Jeans are also one of the most obvious ways to be labeled as American. Dress in layers, because in many regions the climate can change drastically within hours according to location and elevation.

Keep valuables to a minimum. Internet cafes are much more common than Wifi spots, so notebook computers are not entirely necessary. Don't bring ostentatious jewelry; but iPods are ideal for long train rides. Digital cameras are nice to evaluate your photo collection, and you can't be sure that your film won't be x-rayed by security measures at some point.

If you plan on staying in "nicer" hotels, ignore this section. If you're going to be staying in hostels, bring a padlock or bike lock to keep valuables safe. Sleeping sacks are handy when sheets cost extra, and bring your own towel...because you can never be too careful.

What's the best way to get around?

Europe has phenomenal public transportation, whether you're taking the Chunnel, Metro or TGV. I used a Eurail pass for my time in Europe: $1200 for unlimited three months of travel on supported railways. It is a large upfront investment, but compared to other people who bought tickets for their time in Europe, I estimate that the pass paid for itself three times over.

Consider how much traveling you plan to do, and the period of time you'll be doing it in. Airline tickets can be bought for shockingly low prices (check out easyJet, Ryan Air, or Air Berlin) - I flew from London to Paris for the US equivalent of $25. Most seats are on a first come, first seated basis - and check the luggage requirements. Some airlines don't check baggage, and you'll be responsible for keeping track of yours during the flight.

What if I miss my train/connection/flight?

There will be another one. You'll laugh about it later, too...like five years or so!

Do I need to speak every language I encounter?

It's always good to make an effort at the basics - hello, goodbye, thank you, do you speak English, etc. Never, ever, EVER assume that everybody will speak English or be falling over themselves to help you.

I had almost no practical background in any of the languages of the countries I traveled to. But I learned that a smile and some broken attempts in their language would at least garner you some sympathy.

Also: depending on where you are traveling, it is not customary to make eye contact with strangers on the street. And doing so - especially coupled with the aforementioned smile - is an indication that you would like to get to "know" them...Always be aware of the impression you are giving off, and be aware of cultural sensitivities.

How should I deal with currencies?

The dominance of the euro makes this problem almost obsolete - only in London, Prague, and Switzerland was changing currency an issue. Like coming from London to Brussels, and wanting to use the bathroom, but only having pounds and not the requisite euros (most public bathrooms in Europe are pay toilets), and not being able to find an ATM. My friend Debbie and I sat against a wall and watched homeless people walk in and out of the bathrooms… homeless people had more money than we did!

As for money, I personally did not use travelers checks, and everybody I know who has has had problems along the line, whether it be suspected forgery or flat-out stolen checks. I used my Visa/debit card, and encountered no problems.

Where should I stay?

"Hostel" is a movie. It is fiction; a work of the imagination. I stayed in hostels for four months and met more people in the shared bunk rooms and ground floor pubs than I ever would have in a solitary (though admittedly more sanitary) hotel room. If you can stomach coed bathrooms and bedrooms, daily lockouts, mattresses two inches thick, and sometimes very loud, techno-playing ground floor pubs, I recommend hostels over the fanciest hotel. You'll meet some of the most...um, interesting...people in the world. But that's just me!

Make sure you know the rules of the place you're staying. Some hostels will lock the doors during the day for cleaning; some have nightly curfews, and if you're even two minutes late, you'll be finding your own sleeping quarters for the night. The rules bend for nobody.

I will be the first to admit that the backpack-wanderings of today's youth is a far cry from the highly-organized classical scavenger hunts of the traditional Grand Tour. I saw the Mona Lisa; I gazed upon the Pieta; I walked through Roman arena. But I also got to dance in the biggest club in Europe (four floors in Prague); see a puppet-version of "Don Giovanni;" and met some amazing people when the tram lurched in Freiberg. In some ways, I can't help but wonder if the best days of my life have already happened - to modify a quote from Ernest Hemingway: "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Europe as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Europe is a moveable feast."